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Driving the Great River Road: Part Two
- Rachel Huie
- Jul 6
- 10 min read
Stretching over 2,000 miles, the Great River Road follows the twists and turns of the Mississippi from the bluffs of Minnesota to the bayous of Louisiana. Along the way, you'll find America: family-owned farms, high tech skyscrapers, mom-and-pop shops, megamalls. Elvis and Armstrong, fried chicken and butter cake. Literature, music, and, always, the river.
Part One of this series covered the upper Mississippi from Lake Itasca in Minnesota to St. Louis in Missouri. Part Two picks up where we left off, following the river south as it turns into the lower Mississippi, a storied land of infamous cities and forgotten towns, deeply rooted traditions, famous hospitality, and a deep and sometimes dark history that gives the region a slightly haunted feel. One gets the impression that even for all its oil rigs and skyscrapers, the line between present and past is drawn thinner here, and the moss-laden live oaks know more than they tell. Whether you're in search of history, music, deep-fried home cooking, or rocking chair storytellers, the lower Mississippi has a place for you.
Day 10: Travel Day
The second half of the Great River Road trip begins with a travel day through a trio of towns. You'll find the first an hour and a half south of St. Louis, in Chester, Illinois, home to none other than Popeye the Sailor Man — or, at least, his creator, E.C. Segar. With statues, signs, and souvenir shops galore, Chester is a great place to stretch your legs before making the next hour-and-a-half sprint to Cairo.
The first thing you should know about the place is that it's pronounced "Care-oh," one of many things differentiating the Illinois town from its Egyptian namesake. Located at the confluence of the Mississippi and Ohio rivers, Cairo seemed, for a time, in a prime position to become one of the country's great cities; today, it is a ghost town. After decades of racial tension, economic downturns, and the occasional flood, the once-bustling streets of Cairo are now hauntingly quiet, its windows are boarded up, and nature has reclaimed many of its once-grand homes.
It's a little less than an hour from Cairo to New Madrid ("Mad-rid"), a small town famous for its fault line. During the winter of 1811-1812, the area was hit by a series of earthquakes so powerful that they caused the Mississippi River to run backwards. Today, the New Madrid Historical Museum puts the story of the earthquakes in the town's larger context, with exhibits ranging from the Native American Moundbuilders to the Greatest Generation of World War II. From here, it's around two hours to the last stop of the day: Memphis.
Day 11: Memphis
You can't visit Memphis without paying homage to its King, so the day begins with a visit to Graceland. In recent years, Elvis Presley's beloved estate has grown into a complex full of museums, restaurants, attractions, and stores, so it's easy for even the most casual of Elvis listeners to spend a whole morning here. Even though I was never much of a fan myself, I actually enjoyed the museums more than I enjoyed the mansion, so I highly recommend visiting those on your way to or from Graceland. Each mini museum focuses on an aspect of Elvis' life, from his military service to his music career to his motorcycle collection, practically guaranteeing that almost everyone can find something of interest. Before you leave, stop by one of the onsite restaurants for — you guessed it — an Elvis-themed meal, whether it's a peanut butter and banana sandwich at Gladys' Diner or meatloaf sandwiches at Vernon's Smokehouse.
Once you get back to downtown Memphis, you'll find a plethora of ways to spend the rest of the afternoon, including:
Sun Studio - legendary recording studio also known as the home of the Million Dollar Quartet of Elvis Presley, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins, and Johnny Cash.
Memphis Rock 'n' Soul Museum - Smithsonian affiliate full of interactive exhibits telling the story of music history from the sharecroppers of the 1930s to the disco hits of the 1970s.
National Civil Rights Museum - Smithsonian affiliate, located at the Lorraine Motel, that traces 500 years of the journey to the Civil Rights Movement.
Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid - giant pyramid housing the world's largest Bass Pro Shops, restaurants, activities, and a 28-story freestanding elevator.
Day 12: The Delta
Some of Memphis' most famous residents live in a penthouse apartment at the Peabody Hotel and, twice a day, crowds gather to catch a glimpse of them as they walk the lobby's red carpet. I'm talking about ducks, of course. Before leaving town, stop by the Peabody around 10:30 to participate in the almost century-old tradition as the hotel's resident ducks march across the lobby for their daily dip in its fountain.
Travel Tip:
Unless you snag a spot by the red carpet early, it can be difficult to get a good view of the ducks. In the three years that I took tour groups there, I sorta halfway saw a wing once. If the crowd beats you to the carpet, take the stairs to the mezzanine for a bird's-eye view (ahem) of the entire march. No matter where you end up, make sure to stop by the ducks museum on the way there. Tucked in an alcove by the stairs, it can be easy to miss this small but mighty treasure trove of hotel history and memorabilia.
It's said that "the Mississippi Delta begins in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel and ends on Catfish Row in Vicksburg." As you head south on Highway 61, the Blues Highway, you'll be passing through what's known as the most Southern place on Earth, where a rich musical tradition arose from sharecropper fields and good home cooking is a form of art. To begin your exploration of this unique region, make a detour to Helena, Arkansas, where you'll find the Delta Cultural Center, a museum complex housed in several historic buildings. Or, for a musical deep dive, stop by the Gateway to the Blues Museum in Tunica, Mississippi, a quiet town that was once home to the nation's third-largest casino market. If you're feeling lucky, six casinos still operate in the area.
The day's journey will end in Vicksburg, the city that's literally on a hill. If it's still light out, take a walk along the riverfront, where a series of floodwall murals traces the city's history, with an emphasis on its people and places. From the origin of the teddy bear to the first bottled Coca-Cola, you're sure to find some big surprises in this small town's past.
Day 13: Vicksburg
Begin the morning with a walk down Washington Street, the cobblestoned main street of downtown Vicksburg. Over the course of just a few blocks, you'll find the Vicksburg Civil War Museum, the Catfish Row Museum, and a variety of stores and restaurants. For one of the most unique exhibits along the river, consider a self-guided tour of the Army Corps of Engineers' Mississippi IV, a decommissioned towboat that's a true time capsule of the 70s and 80s, located at the Lower Mississippi River Museum. No matter what you do, make sure to stop by the Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum, where the first Coca-Cola was ever bottled, for an ice cream float!
After lunch, head a few minutes from downtown to the Vicksburg National Military Park, site of one of the Civil War's most pivotal battles. Now covered in more than 1,400 monuments, it is also one of the nation's most accurately documented battlefields. To understand the full breadth of the campaign and the human stories that go along with it, I recommend booking one of the licensed battlefield guides for a two-hour tour. All guides go through a rigorous training and examination program and have a clear passion for the park; even though I went on this tour hundreds of times as an excursions director, I always enjoyed hearing their narration and learned something new every visit.
From Vicksburg, it's just about an hour and a half to a town that fared much differently in the Civil War: Natchez.
Day 14: Natchez
They say that if you aren't sure how to pronounce Natchez, just remember that "nothing matches Natchez" — and they're right! Once one of the wealthiest places in America, Natchez surrendered early in the Civil War, meaning that most of its 1,000+ antebellum structures have survived to this day. A trip to Natchez, then, is a true trip back in time, in more ways than one. A place where Main Street is still the main street, Natchez is home to a wide variety of restaurants, museums, and stores — from antique malls to art galleries and from mom-and-pop emporiums to boutiques. I always told our cruise guests that Natchez was the best shopping port on the whole Mississippi. Whether you shop until you drop, explore some of the museums, embark on a specialty walking tour, or just enjoy the sights, it's easy to spend a morning in Natchez.
For lunch, head down the bluff to The Camp, one of our favorite crew haunts, where Tex-Mex favorites meet sports bar bites. It's been over a year, and I still think about their Philly Cheese Totchos on a weekly basis.
After lunch, head to the outskirts of downtown Natchez, where you'll find Longwood. When building commenced in 1860, its owner dreamed that Longwood would be famous as the largest octagonal home in the United States; today, it is better known for being unfinished. The builders dropped their tools at the onset of the Civil War, leaving a building site that looks much the same today as it did over 150 years ago. Tours of the home include the furnished basement and the barren upper floors, empty except for rusted paint cans, moving boxes, and unrealized plans.
After you leave Longwood, follow the Blues Highway down to Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana.
Day 15: Baton Rouge
Begin the morning on top of the world — or, at least, on top of the tallest capitol building in the country. Located on the 27th floor of the Louisiana State Capitol, the observation deck provides panoramic views of downtown Baton Rouge and the Mississippi River. After coming back down to earth, it's an easy walk across the street to the Capitol Park Museum, a one-stop shop for all things Louisiana culture and history. With exhibits ranging from Mardi Gras to the Louisiana Purchase, this bright and interactive museum is one of my all-time favorites.
As you navigate around downtown Baton Rouge, two very unique buildings are likely to catch your eye: the first looks like a castle, and the second looks like the White House. After lunch, trade the morning's New State Capitol for the Old State Capitol, AKA the Castle on the River. Although the castle is perhaps best known for its grand staircase and stained glass dome, it also houses a museum dedicated to the city's notorious political history, with special emphasis on its best-loved and most infamous son. It's said that Governor Huey Long was so determined to become president that he rebuilt the governor's mansion as a near-perfect replica of the White House, so he would know his way around when he got to the real deal. This leads us to our next stop: the Old Governor's Mansion. Although the home is undeniably "The House That Huey Built," furnishings from all nine of the governors who lived here make the mansion a walk-through of mid-century Baton Rouge. Since tours are self-guided, you could almost feel like you live here, too!
Alternately, if politics aren't your thing, head just outside the city to LSU's Rural Life Museum. Equal parts indoor exhibits, antiques warehouse, and recreated village, the museum provides a comprehensive look at rural life in 19th-century Louisiana. Whether you're interested in farming equipment, architecture, mourning rituals, sugar plantations, gardening, pioneer life, or playthings, you can find it here. And that's just the tip of the iceberg.
Day 16: New Orleans
A little less than an hour south of Baton Rouge, as the land flattens en route to the Gulf, you'll see the colorful facade of Laura Plantation. Known as Louisiana's Créole Heritage Site, a visit to Laura is like a visit to another world, where signage and tours are presented in both English and French, a reminder of the latter's influence on the region, then and now. The site also takes pride in its history as "the first plantation in Louisiana to address the topic of slavery head-on," and tours devote equal time to stories of the slaves and of the Duparc-Locoul family.
From Laura, it's just one more hour to the last home base: New Orleans. Equal parts tourism hotspots and homey neighborhoods, the Crescent City offers a plethora of tour opportunities, from bus tours and walking tours to history tours and paranormal tours. At some point during your time here, I recommend trading the city for the swamp; Cajun Encounters provides transportation to Honey Island Swamp, where you'll learn about the ecosystem and meet some of its inhabitants on a flat-bottomed boat ride.
Travel Tip:
For prime alligator viewing, book your swamp tour during the warmer months (think March to October). You'll probably still see alligators during the winter, but it might be only a couple as opposed to dozens.
After exploring the city and the swamp, head to Mulate's in the Warehouse District for dinner and a show, where classic Louisiana dishes like gumbo and etouffee meet live zydeco performances. Or, after driving along the Mississippi for the past two weeks, set sail aboard the Steamboat Natchez for a dinner jazz cruise. No matter which you choose, if you'd like to keep the night going after dinner, you're only about a mile from Bourbon Street.
Day 17: New Orleans and Points South
Get an early start the next morning for one last full day. Before heading out of the city, stop by the French Quarter to pick up some beignets at the legendary Café du Monde. Then, continue following the river. You'll find the end of the line in the tiny fishing village of Venice, Louisiana, about two hours south of New Orleans. Although this is the farthest you can travel by car, the true mouth of the Mississippi is accessible only by boat. To make the most of your visit, I highly recommend booking a spot on Delta Discovery Tours' Birdsfoot Tour; with room for just six, this boat tour to the Gulf is intimate, customizable, and the perfect ending to a Great River Road trip.
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