48 Hours in Mark Twain's Hannibal

It's not often that places are exactly how we picture them. The monument is smaller than we expected — a major thoroughfare cuts right through the middle of the park that seemed so secluded in pictures — the tourist trap is, well, a trap. But not so in Hannibal. From its quaint downtown (where people still come running when they hear a ship's whistle) to the whitewashed fence outside Mark Twain's childhood home, Hannibal bears a striking resemblance to the town of the author's memoirs, stories, and of our own nostalgia. Whether you come here seeking Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn or wish to walk once more down Main Street America, here's how to spend 48 hours in Hannibal.

Day One

When you first step off a riverboat and into the port of Hannibal, the first thing you see is a statue of the man himself, Mark Twain, at the helm of a ship. The second thing you see is the Boyhood Home. Whether you come by land or by water, make this your first stop. Technically a complex of nearly a dozen properties, the Mark Twain Boyhood Home and Museum brings to life the story and stories of Mark Twain through self-guided tours and interactive exhibits at places like the Huckleberry Finn House, Grant's Drugstore, and the Mark Twain Museum and Gallery. Although it might seem counterintuitive, I recommend saving the Museum and Gallery for last. Since it's located down the street from the other properties, you'll be walking through downtown Hannibal right around lunchtime and can stop in for a quick meal at one of the restaurants along the way.

While you're on Main Street, take some time for a little window (or actual!) shopping. This part of Hannibal is one of those places where every shop is unique and you won't find any chains. Just to give you an idea, in a span of three blocks, you'll find a general store, an ice cream parlor, a Native American gift shop, and a quilt store that made the Better Homes and Gardens Top 10 list.

After exploring downtown Hannibal, climb the ridge to Rockcliffe. With its 13,500 square feet, 30 rooms, and commanding view of the Mighty Mississippi, it's hard to imagine anyone choosing to leave this Gilded Age palace. But in 1924, the owners did just that, walking out one day and leaving the house vacant — but not empty — for almost 50 years. Today, Rockcliffe is a veritable time capsule of the early 20th century, looking much the same as it did when the owners walked out that day in 1924, down to the clothes in the closets and the cleaning supplies in the kitchen. As I've said before, I used to get paid to explore historic homes, and Rockcliffe was easily my favorite. (And if you're looking for a Mark Twain connection, you've got it: In 1902, on his last visit to Hannibal, he addressed a crowd of 300 from the home's grand staircase.)

As your first day in Hannibal draws to a close, head back down the ridge to LaBinnah Bistro (read that backwards), a cozy spot where globally inspired dishes are served in a historic building lit by candlelight. Keep an eye out for specialty dinners throughout the year, including a five-course meal inspired by the Titanic's first class menu. (And if you're wondering what a tiny Midwestern town has to do with the Titanic, keep reading!)

Day Two

Begin the day with a trip underground, just as Hannibal residents have been doing for centuries. On an hour-long walk through the cavern system at Mark Twain Cave, you'll follow in the footsteps of mad scientists and outlaws, hearing the same stories that were told to a young Sam Clemens and which he later wrote about, as Mark Twain, in The Adventures of Tom Sawyer. Tom and Becky weren't the only ones to visit the cave, though: As you progress through your tour, you'll see their creator's signature scrawled amongst hundreds of others on the cave wall.

After emerging from the cave, head back to downtown Hannibal and an unassuming white house. Almost a half century before the sinking of the Titanic cemented her spot in history as "the unsinkable Molly Brown," Margaret Tobin was born here. Although it's unlikely that her path ever really crossed with Mark Twain's, legend has it that he saved her from drowning in the Mississippi long before her better-known (and better-documented) experience in the Atlantic. Today, the Molly Brown Birthplace and Museum tells her story from growing up in Hannibal to striking it rich in Colorado and beyond, a twist of fate that set her on a path of philanthropy, activism, travel, and, eventually, the most famous shipwreck of the 20th century.

As the sun begins to set over Hannibal, pass the Mark Twain statue and board the Mark Twain Riverboat, because before he was Mark Twain, author, he was Sam Clemens, riverboat pilot. What better way to end your 48 hours in Hannibal than on a dinner cruise down the river its most famous son once sailed and forever immortalized in his works?