48 Hours in New Orleans

New Orleans is where I go to run away. From its wrought iron balconies and bead-bedecked street signs to party groups and passengers pre-cruise — and, if you believe the legends, a ghost or two — there's something unreal about the place, something otherworldly. It doesn't seem to exist in the same universe as 9-to-5s and the daily grind.

Whether it's the world-renowned food, the cultural institutions, or the potential for partying that first brings you here, it'll be the friendly people and laid-back atmosphere that keeps you coming back.

So when you decide to run away, look no further than the activities below to fill a weekend in New Orleans.

Day One

Begin the day with a five-mile drive to the middle of the city, where, in the middle of a cemetery in the middle of a residential neighborhood, you'll find Morning Call coffee stand. Here, you can sample some of the city's famed beignets while beating the crowds and prices of the better-known cafés, all in an airy and aesthetic building that will transport you right back to its founding year of 1870. Keep in mind that, just like in 1870, the café is cash-only. Never fear, though; there's an ATM on site.

Travel Tip

If you're a bridge fan, consider continuing north from Morning Call to the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway. Stretching almost 24 miles across the middle of the lake, it's the longest continuous bridge over water in the world. A round-trip crossing will take well over an hour; if you'd like to experience crossing the lake without committing the entire morning to it, consider the 5.5-mile I-10 Twin Span Bridge.

After returning to downtown New Orleans, venture into the city's most famous — and infamous — district: the French Quarter. The oldest neighborhood in the city, the French Quarter is the heart of New Orleans, home to 18th-century architecture, performances on every corner, museums, stores, and — of course — Bourbon Street.

Begin your exploration at the French Market, a five-block open-air marketplace that traces its roots back to 1791. Local vendors sell everything from artwork to apparel to furniture to food, making this a great place to find unique souvenirs. From there, make the short walk up Decatur Street to Jackson Square.

If the French Quarter is the heart of New Orleans, Jackson Square is the heart of the French Quarter. Today, the historic public greenspace at the foot of St. Louis Cathedral doubles as an open-air gallery, where you can buy paintings from local artists or listen to the city's famous jazz music. You might even find a palm reader or two. Or, if learning about local history is more your thing, you'll find three museums right off Jackson Square: the Cabildo, the Presbytère, and the 1850 House.

After spending the morning in the French Quarter, cross Canal Street, the dividing line between it and the Warehouse District. As the name suggests, the Warehouse District was the seat of the city's thriving river trade in the 1800s, and many of the old warehouses have since been converted into hotels, galleries, and restaurants. Quieter and more laidback than its more famous neighbor, the district's cobblestone streets and flickering lamps give it the feeling of a small, closely knit town. It makes sense, then, for the lunch stop to be a neighborhood pub. Serving up local cuisine since 1902, Ernst Café is the oldest continuously operating bar in the Warehouse District, making for a uniquely New Orleans dining experience.

After lunch, for a literal overview of the city, head to Vue Orleans, an interactive cultural experience that begins at the riverwalk and ends at an observation deck 34 stories above the city. Along the way, you'll learn about New Orleans' history and culture, from Native American settlements all the way to Mardi Gras. After, if you find your Carnival interest piqued, make the one-mile commute to the other side of the district, where you'll find one of its last remaining working warehouses — and it just so happens to be dedicated to Mardi Gras. As you tour the 300,000 square foot Mardi Gras World, you'll get a behind-the-scenes glimpse of New Orleans' famed parades as you watch artisans build their floats, and — perhaps just as importantly — you'll also get to feast on king cake.

Travel Tip

Don't want to make the mile-long hike to Mardi Gras World? They offer free shuttle pick-up and drop-off at nine hotels throughout the Warehouse and Central Business districts. If you're heading there from Vue Orleans, the nearest pick-up location will be at the Hilton New Orleans Riverside.

Although it can be tempting to fill up on king cake, save some room for dinner at the "original Cajun restaurant." Located in the middle of downtown, a trip to Mulate's feels like a trip to the bayou, complete with classic Louisiana dishes, rustic decor, live zydeco music, and a thriving dancefloor.

Day Two

Get an early start the next morning for a full day of exploration that will take you through three neighborhoods and one swamp before ending at the oldest of New Orleans' "grand dame" restaurants. It begins with coffee and crepes at Ironworks, a Warehouse District establishment known for bestowing on its baked goods names like "Bounty Hunter" and "Tiramisu Bomb." From there, hop on one of the city's picture-perfect streetcars for a short ride to the Garden District.

Known for its stately mansions and Spanish moss-laden oaks, the Garden District feels worlds away from the skyscrapers of downtown. Of all New Orleans' neighborhoods, this is one of the best for simply wandering, but, if you prefer a more structured route, consider one of its many walking tours, which range from architectural to paranormal in focus. No matter how you choose to explore the district, find your way at some point to Magazine Street, a six-mile stretch of locally owned restaurants, galleries, and shops. This is the perfect place to procure your very own Mardi Gras mask or explore the antiques stores for which the city is famous. While you're on Magazine Street, stop in at The Vintage, a chic-casual spot serving up small plates with something for everyone, whether you're in the mood for wings, alligator, or more beignets.

After lunch, trade the city for the swamp aboard one of Cajun Encounters' flat-bottomed boats. Considered one of the country's most pristine wetlands, Honey Island Swamp is home to cypress trees, Spanish moss, turtles, racoons, herons, and — of course — alligators. On one of Cajun Encounters' eco-friendly swamp tours, you'll get up close and personal with the flora and fauna while learning about bayou history and culture. For an even deeper dive into the swamp (figuratively), opt for a VIP tour; with boat capacity limited to just 12, you'll get a personalized experience and be able to reach areas of the swamp that are inaccessible by larger boats.

Once you return to the city, take some time to recuperate at the hotel before heading back to the French Quarter, where you'll find New Orleans' oldest restaurant. Established in 1840, Antoine's is legendary as the birthplace of Oysters Rockefeller, Eggs Sardou, and other French-Creole creations. The family-run restaurant has survived the Civil War, both world wars, the Great Depression, and Hurricane Katrina, making it the perfect example of the New Orleans spirit — and the perfect place to toast your weekend in Louisiana.